The language of making a collection.

A clear reference to the terms used in fashion development, garment construction, trade and compliance — written by a manufacturer, for the brands and designers we work with. If a term in a quote or a tech pack is unfamiliar, it is probably here.

Development & SamplingConstruction & CraftCommercial & TradeStandards & Compliance

Development & Sampling

Tech Pack
A technical specification document that tells a manufacturer exactly how to make a garment — measurements, construction details, materials, trims, stitching, labelling and tolerances. The tech pack is the single source of truth a factory works from; the more complete it is, the more accurate the costing and the closer the first sample comes to intention.
Toile (Muslin)
A first prototype of a garment sewn in inexpensive cloth — traditionally unbleached cotton muslin, called calico or toile — to test pattern, fit and proportion before cutting the final fabric. In couture and luxury development, several toiles may be made before a design is approved for sampling.
Grading
The process of scaling a base-size pattern up and down to create a full size range, keeping proportion correct at every size. Good grading is invisible; poor grading is why a garment can fit beautifully in one size and badly in the next.
Prototype
The first sewn version of a design in the intended fabric, used to evaluate construction, drape and finish. A prototype round refines the garment before bulk production; luxury development often involves several rounds.
Lay Plan (Marker)
The arrangement of all pattern pieces on the fabric before cutting, engineered to minimise waste. An efficient lay plan protects both cost and, where cloth is precious, sustainability.

Construction & Craft

Canvas Construction
A tailoring method in which a layer of canvas is floated between the outer cloth and lining of a jacket, allowing it to mould to the body over time. Full-canvas construction is the mark of fine tailoring; fused (glued) construction is its mass-market shortcut.
Bias Cut
Cutting fabric at 45 degrees to the grain so it stretches and drapes fluidly around the body. The bias cut defines a certain kind of luxury eveningwear — beautiful, unforgiving, and demanding of a skilled maker.
Whole-Garment Knitting
A knitting technology that produces a complete, seamless garment in a single piece directly on the machine, with no cutting or sewing. It yields a cleaner finish and less waste, and is held in-house by only a minority of manufacturers.
Hand-Finishing
Construction steps completed by hand rather than machine — hems, linings, buttonholes, beadwork — where the eye or the hand will register the difference. Hand-finishing is one of the clearest dividing lines between premium and luxury garments.
Embellishment
Decorative work applied to a garment: beadwork, sequins, embroidery, appliqué. In luxury eveningwear it is often hand-applied and represents a significant share of a garment's labour and value.

Commercial & Trade

FOB (Free On Board)
An Incoterm where the manufacturer delivers the goods, cleared for export, onto the vessel at the port of origin. From that point the buyer owns the cost and risk of shipping. FOB pricing covers the garment and getting it to the ship, but not international freight or import duties.
DDP (Delivered Duty Paid)
An Incoterm where the manufacturer delivers the goods to the buyer's door with all freight, export and import duties paid and customs cleared. DDP is the most convenient term for a brand, because the price quoted is the full landed cost with no surprises at the border.
CMT (Cut, Make, Trim)
A manufacturing arrangement where the brand supplies the fabric and trims, and the factory only cuts, sews and finishes. CMT gives a brand maximum control over materials but requires it to manage its own sourcing.
Full-Package (FPP)
A manufacturing arrangement where the factory handles everything — sourcing fabric and trims, development, production and finishing — and delivers finished garments. Full-package production lets a brand focus on design and sales rather than supply chain logistics.
Private Label
Manufacturing finished garments that carry the buyer's brand, not the manufacturer's. The maker remains invisible; the label belongs entirely to the brand. Most luxury production is, by nature, private label.
Lead Time
The total time from order confirmation to delivery, covering development, material sourcing, production and shipping. Luxury construction and specialised techniques extend lead time; it is confirmed per project according to scope.

Standards & Compliance

OEKO-TEX Standard 100
A certification confirming that a textile has been tested for harmful substances and is safe for human contact. It reassures brands and customers that the cloth meets a recognised safety threshold.
GOTS
The Global Organic Textile Standard — certification covering organic fibre content alongside environmental and social criteria across the supply chain. It is the reference standard for collections positioned as organic.
GRS
The Global Recycled Standard — certification verifying recycled material content and responsible production. Used by brands making recycled-content claims that need to withstand scrutiny.
Sedex SMETA
A widely recognised social-compliance audit assessing labour standards, health and safety, environment and business ethics at a production site. SMETA documentation is increasingly required by brands subject to due-diligence regulation.
DCFTA (Turkey–UK)
The Developing Countries Trading Scheme / free trade arrangement under which qualifying garments manufactured in Turkey enter the United Kingdom at 0% import duty — a structural advantage for UK brands producing in Turkey.

From the language to the garment.

Every term here is something we do. If you are developing a luxury collection and want it made by people who speak this language fluently, begin in the atelier.

Enter Atelier Flow ↗ Luxury womenswear manufacturing